Notes From Fine Wine Cellars

New Wine Coming Friday

finewinecellars — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 19:49:09 +0000

We love finding new wines for the shop and are particularly excited about a couple new ones coming tomorrow, January 13th 2012.

Big Vine Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande 2009, $14.99
California’s Central Coast certainly produces great Pinot Noir. It also produces some pretty uninteresting Pinots, especially when you hit the under $20 mark. This amazing effort at $14.99 carries plenty of ripe fruit and spice with a silky soft texture, all balanced by zippy fresh acidity that keeps the wine classy and stylish and elegant.

R. Stuart Big Fire Pinot Gris Oregon 2010, $17.99
R. Stuart wines have certainly had their fare share of acclaim. It was exciting news when the wines came to Vermont and even more exciting to taste the Big Fire line, their entry wines. The Big Fire Pinot Gris is a breath of fresh air in the world of Pinot Gris. Bright, crisp flowery fruit bursts from the glass. On the palate the fruit has to share the spotlight with dusty minerality that balances out the pretty fruit. This is one heck of a vibrant wine.

Shebang! The Name Says It All

finewinecellars — Thu, 10 Nov 2011 18:13:01 +0000

Bedrock Sherman and Hooker’s Shebang! Red, Fourth Cuvee
Price: $12.99
When I say winemaker Morgan Twain Peterson is a freak of nature, I really do mean it as a compliment. He made his first wine at the age of 5. He is incredibly intelligent, a gifted winemaker and is ferociously passionate about anything to do with wines, vines and soils. Yet somehow, among all his talents, Morgan manages to stay humble, obviously just one heck of a nice guy who is excited about what he does and is happy to share that excitement with others. His one “entry level” red wine could be viewed as his wine to share with all. At $12.99 it is affordable to most and its full, lush, soft fruit is a crowd-pleaser. Sherman and Hooker’s Shebang! Fourth Cuvee Red is a blend of Syrah, Zinfandel and other “mixed blacks” as he calls the other grapes thrown into the mix. Fresh fruit bursts from the glass, and on the palate, with a soft silky texture. The wine carries zingy acidity which keeps it light on its feet through all its depth of fruit and peppery spice. You couldn’t ask for a better value from a nicer guy.

Top to Bottom, A Favorite Spanish Wine Portfolio

finewinecellars — Mon, 31 Oct 2011 19:51:32 +0000

I can count on one hand the number of wine importers whose entire catalogs of wine impress from top to bottom. Ole Imports, a Spanish wine importer, is one of them. Ole does an incredible job of finding producers throughout Spain who are creating elegant wines with depth while maintaining their sense of place. At all levels, beautiful fruit mingles with earth and freshness. Here are a couple of favorites:

2010 Bodegas Emeritas Dacu, $8-$10
100% Tempranillo. Winemaker Alberto Orte manages year after year to produce a beautifully vibrant wine with plenty of lush, mouthcoating fruit. The vineyards for this wine range in soil composition from clay to limestone and sand, allowing the wine to achieve depth of fruit as well as brightness and freshness along with a sense of dusty earth. 4 months in tank gives Dacu its lushness and dense red fruit and spice. 2 months in French oak adds coffee and toast. Quite a mouthful of wine at one heck of a price.

El Brozal Rioja 2008, $28
80% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 10% Garnacha. Rioja that follows the letter of the law can call itself Crianza or Riserva. This one cannot, but don’t think that in any way jeopardizes its quality. This unique single vineyard site is composed of powdery red sand on the surface with a limestone subsoil and big rocks somewhere in between. Each layer gives something to the wine, creating an elegant, full bodied Rioja that remains light on its feet and has wonderful aging potential. That being said, open a bottle today and follow the wine over the course of a couple of hours as it moves from floral and elegant to a richer, denser and more powerful wine without losing its freshness and vibrancy. Only 700 6-packs produced.

Big Vine Chardonnay – Richness without Oak

finewinecellars — Thu, 13 Oct 2011 15:41:16 +0000

California Chardonnay is known for its toasty richness and creaminess. While the toasty richness tends to come from time in oak barrels, the creaminess can typically be attributed to a secondary fermentation (malolactic fermentation) that often trades crisp acidity for a buttery creaminess.

There is a new breed of Chardonnay in California now and it is catching on – one without oak or malolactic fermentation. These Chards often do not appeal to fans of richer styled Cali Chards as they can lack the weight and creaminess they are used to. One recently tasted blew me away as the perfect compromise for buttery oak fans and non-fans alike.

Big Vine Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2009 $14.99
Fermented only in stainless steel, no oak and no malolactic fermentation. I expected this wine to be light on its feet, zippy and fresh. Instead I got a mouthful of beautiful, rich, ripe fruit with a creamy texture and balanced by an unexpected weight from earthy minerality. The bright acidity added the exclamation point. There was even a hint of smokiness that led me to question whether there was oak. There is not. Just an amazing wine at a great price. I’m not going to try and figure this one out. I’m just going to enjoy it!

Maso Poli tasting. Day 2 Trentino Alto Adige

finewinecellars — Wed, 14 Sep 2011 08:25:19 +0000

At dinner I asked Maso Poli owner and founder Luigi Togn, if there was one other grape he could plant, what would it be. He shook his head smiling. “I am a traditionalist. All the people who have come before me and suffered, at times with no food on the table, to learn the best grapes to grow here. I follow them. They learned what is best.”
Luigi’s daughter, Romina (our incredibly gracious host for two days), added to the story. “Once my father replanted a lower section of the vineyard with a grape that grew higher up. The grape did not like it so he took it out and re-planted something else there.”
The wines of this family range from the entry level Terra di Luna line to the mid range Lechthaler line and finally to the estate Maso Poli wines. What amazed me most was the quality and balance at each level. Even with the entry level wines there was brightness and freshness, a quality that carried right through to the estate wines. Winemaker for every one of the lines, Goffredo Passoli, summed it up best. “There has to be brightness and freshness at every level. Our growers are paid for the quality of the grapes not just the quantity. We analyze the grapes for acidity level and sugar levels to determine the amount the grower gets paid.”
We toured the vineyards in the small area of Teroldigo Rotaliano with one of their growers. As we strolled through the beautifully canopied vines, where ownership changed from one row to the next, he proudly showed us the differences between his rows and others. For his rows, each of the long clusters had been trimmed off about half way up so that the vines would focus more energy on the remaining grapes. There were also fewer clusters on his rows, having dropped many grapes to the ground. Again, more focus and concentration for the remaining clusters. This attention to detail was evident throughout the tasting. I enjoyed every one of the wines. Here are a few favorites:

Lechthaler Teroldigo Rotaliano 2009
Teroldigo is a grape thought to be related to Syrah. It certainly shared the fresh red fruit flavors of Syrah. And then there is the magic beyond. A gentle, soft, supple richness surrounds the raspberry fruit. There is a brightness and freshness and briary, funky (in a good way) earthiness to the fruit. And there is a denseness to the fruit as well that remarkably remains light and fresh. Retailing around $15, this wine is ridiculously good.

Torre di Luna Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
Once again I was amazed at the freshness this entry level Cab possessed. Bright, sweet fruit and balance in an easy drinking style was more than I could ask of a Cab at this price – around $10.

The Maso Poli estate wines showed elegance and grace throughout. The Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) was built for age with balance of fruit and mineral earth. Their flagship, Marmoram (a blend of Teroldigo and Lagrein), was powerful yet elegant and built for age.

Only the Lechthaler Teroldigo Rotaliano and Pinot Grigio (another winner) along with the Torre di Luna Cabernet have made it into the shop so far. More will be on the way. If you want to step off the beaten path and try some sumptuous new wines, come on in and grab a few bottles!

Trentino Alto Adige day 1

finewinecellars — Tue, 13 Sep 2011 09:40:42 +0000

As I sit at Maso Poli in Lavis, within Italy’s Trentino area, it is difficult to focus on the vines. The beginning of the dolomites (the Italian Alps) rise sharply from the valley floor, leaving little room for prime vineyard site in the foothills. These mountains surround and dominate the landscape. Maso Poli purchased land on the slopes in 1978 and has been producing elegantly styled wines from Pinot Nero, Pinot Grigio, Teraldigo and Lagrein (among others) ever since. Just as the dolomites are set firmly in place, Maso Poli stands firmly set in its ways, choosing to create wines true to te region, with subtle grace and elegance. Even when they created a new wine for their line in the early 2000s that would be their higher end flagship, they chose to produce it from indigenous varieties, Teraldigo and Lagrein instead of going international with a Bordeaux style. The wines too at Maso Poli are like the family that owns it – open and friendly with layer upon layer of personality. True to the land beyond all else. I look forward to tasting through the wines tomorrow.

Andrew Will Wines – Releasing the 2007s, Tasting the 2003

finewinecellars — Wed, 24 Aug 2011 15:22:58 +0000

As we receive our allocation of the 2007s from the always impressive Andrew Will line up, it seemed an appropriate time to pull the cork on a 2003 Andrew Will. After all, these Washington State gems age beautifully and, with 2007 being classically cool, it is a vintage that will age gracefully.

Since Andrew Will’s inception in 1989, Owner-Wine Maker Chris Comarda has focused on Bordeaux style blends primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petite Verdot. Chris has an amazing ability to balance powerful fruit and structure with the elegance of bright acidity and a sense of earth. Neither fruit bomb nor old world in style, these wines showcase just how impressive the best growing conditions of the Columbia valley can be. Critics have weighed in big time as well, with the 2007 Champoux bottling scoring 95 points from Parker’s WA, while the 2007 Sorella garnered a whopping 96+ points.

2003 Andrew Will Sheridan Red
No longer one of the wines produced at Andrew Will (although fruit is still sourced from the vineyard), I remember tasting the 2003 upon its release. Gorgeous, lush fruit was trying to sneak out from behind the structure of tight, fine tannins and the fresh zing of balanced acidity. It was a serious mouth full of wine, but there was evidence that time would further soften the wine and bring out even more of the fruit. And so, six years later, the wine is everything I hoped it to be. Hard, tannic edges had dissipated, leaving deep, soft, velvety dark fruit. The presence of toasty oak was now in the background, adding a touch of elegant spice. What brought a smile to my face was the one component that had not changed. There was still a fresh acidity that lifted the fruit and brightened it and made it dance on the palate. The wine still possessed its balance and finesse, evidence that patience pays off big time with Andrew Will wines.

2007 Andrew Will
We have four offerings from Andrew Will’s 2007 vintage. The first two are newer offering that allow us to enjoy Chris’s wines now, while waiting on the second two to come around.

Andrew Will Cuvee Lucia Cabernet Sauvignon, $26.99
A great price on a bottle of Andrew Will Cabernet. Plenty of rich, lush fruit that remains focused and fresh (trademark Andrew Will). Chris did an amazing job producing this in a style that is ready to drink now – soft and silky – so drink up!

Andrew Will May’s Discovery Cabernet Sauvignon, $39.99
A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that possesses surprisingly rich fruit and depth considering it all comes from young vines. What is not surprising about the young vines is the velvety soft texture and round suppleness that makes this wine ready to drink now. A great intro to Andrew Will.

Andrew Will Champoux Vineyard, $54.99
52% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petite Verdot. Packed with bright, fresh fruit, there is a sense of laser beam precision to this wine. The focus of the deep fruit and earth is amazing with screaming freshness that lifts this wine on the palate despite its dense, mocha finish. Amazing juice.

Andrew Will Sorella, $63.99
72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 3% Petite Verdot. Much more Cabernet based, the Sorella bottling sources fruit solely from Chamoux vineyard, making for a fun comparison of the two wines. As it turns out, other that wine making style, these wines are quite different (no surprise). The higher level of Cabernet lends a more tart, red cherry and chocolate note to the wine. Almost more vibrant than the Champoux bottling, if that is possible, Sorella is also a bit softer while maintaining its sense of freshness and depth of fruit. Another gorgeous bottling for the cellar or decanted for a number of hours if you can’t keep your hands off of it!

Heat Wave Wine

finewinecellars — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 18:13:23 +0000

Even here in Vermont summer has hit full force with temps allegedly nearing 95 degrees later today. Time to check your water intake and time to double check the weight of your wine. Not exactly what you hear on the local news about how to beat the heat! By weight I mean the way the wine feels in your mouth, its richness of texture, how it plays on your taste buds and sits on the back of your tongue after you swallow it. California Cabernets grown on the valley floor, for instance, tend to carry a lot of weight, coating the insides of your mouth and sitting like sludge after you swallow. One might find such wines tantalizing on a cold winter night with a thick slab of beef and mashed potatoes. Not so much on a hot summer night.

Pinot Grigio (Pinot Gris everywhere outside of Italy) was built for a heat wave. But not just any Pinot Grigio. Steer clear of the overproduced, mass marketed, under-styled versions with sweet flabby fruit. Well made Pinot Grigio can dance lightly across the palate, delivering a fresh wallop of bright fruit along the way and finishing with balanced acidity that leads to a clean, crisp finish. Refreshing to say the least. Here is a shop favorite:

Lechthaler Pinot Grigio 2009, Trento Italy, $12.00
The Lechthaler Family settled in Northern Italy’s Trentino region in the late 1800s, when it was still Austria. At the foot of the Dolomites, Lechthaler produces a beautiful Pinot Grigio with all the refreshing fruit, brightness and freshness one could ask. Aged only in stainless steel, the wine remains crisp and clean allowing its stony minerality to shine through. Perfect for deck sitting or paired with summer salads and fresh seafood on the grill.

Pinot Noir On A Budget

finewinecellars — Wed, 06 Jul 2011 13:38:01 +0000

Pinot Noir is a finicky grape. It likes cool growing conditions and does not like to be over produced. Keeping crop levels down per acre is a must, which is one reason Pinot Noir is a more expensive grape to grow and a very hard wine to make of decent quality in the $12 and under category. In California, inexpensive Pinot Noir is often not 100% Pinot Noir. Syrah is the most often employed substitute and can make up 25% of a wine that still carries the name Pinot Noir on the label. Growers are able to enlarge crop yields for the Pinot Noir, which typically dilutes the quality, and make up for the lack of fruit through the use of Syrah, a grape with more weight and color. What these wines lack is true Pinot character. There is no sense of freshness and minerality. Luckily there are exceptions (otherwise what would be the use of writing about it!). Here are a couple of favorites. How they do it, I don’t know, but these Pinots maintain their Pinot-ness beautifully.

Vinum Cellars Pinot Noir California 2008, $10.00
Sourcing fruit from California’s Monterey area, Vinum Cellars succeeds in producing a Pinot Noir that keeps its fresh Pinot character without giving up its depth. While there may not be layers of complexity, this wine delivers pretty fruit and balanced acidity at a heck of a price.

Joseph Mellot Pinot Noir Destinea 2009, $11.00
Here we have serious old world charm from France’s Loire Valley. More than just pretty Pinot fruit, here there are multiple layers of fresh fruit, spice and briary earth. More Burgundian in style, this Pinot sets the bar for old world charm at an often untouchable price for the quality. A favorite for Burgundy lovers on a budget. Note: This wine can also be found under the Joseph Mellot Sincerite label. Sources say it is the same wine, different importer.

White Wine Like No Other

finewinecellars — Tue, 22 Feb 2011 15:59:50 +0000

As the snow continues to fly here in Vermont, white wines that speak of spring and summer are still a couple of months out from hitting the radar. But there are whites that pair beautifully with the winter season, perfect with a roasted chicken or slow cooked pork loin, served at cellar temperature (55 degrees) rather than chilled to an icy cold. A gorgeous wine from Italy’s region of Campania, south of Tuscany, fits the bill to a “T”. This off-the-beaten-path wine from ancient grapes, famous for producing the best wines of the Roman Empire, provide a nice change of pace just as cabin fever begins to set in.

Terredora di Paolo Greco di Tufo 2009, $23.99 (on deal for $19.99 at FWC)
The grape, Greco di Tufo, produces a wine of rich texture like Chardonnay. Unlike most Cali Chardonnay, however, there is no oak used. The full texture and rich, minerally spice is a product of the soil in which these grapes are grown. Combined with bright, vibrant citrus and orchard fruit, the wine is quite an explosive mouth full of flavors and texture. Greco accompanies lighter roasted meats and vegetables impeccably. Thanks to its rich texture this wine tends to appeal to oaked Chardonnay fans, while its crisp nature certainly appeals to those who typically shy away from oaky Chardonnay. In other words, its appeal is broad and the wine has been incredibly well received by those looking to taste outside the box.